THE WRITING OF C-É-LINE’S TESTAMENT
On Friday September 28, Hedi Slimane, the newly appointed creative director of ‘Maison de Couture’ Celine, released the SS19 collection. Bound to be controversial, it was in fact a horror movie. As provocative and sexualized as could be his earlier work at fashion house Saint-Laurent, the disappointing and already-common fusion of dark-shades and colors and rock’n’roll glamour destroyed every particle of Celine’s DNA.
Pinstripe tuxedos, biker jacket, sequined blazers, studded leather and a mixed-gender cast epitomized the presentation, reminding of the striking similarities between this collection and Slimane’s previous work at Saint-Laurent. As for Tim Blanks, Business of Fashion’s editor-at-large, it was “the same old skinny black suits and skinny ties, the same old hiked-as-you-care dresses, the same old tiny bombers and bikers and Mod and Factory and new wave and no wave”. In short, the show resembled a biker rally, a funeral, mourning the once iconic, sophisticated and feminine Celine.
Left: Saint Laurent Fall 2016 Menswear | Right: Celine Spring 2019 RTW
In the tumult of Parisian nightlife glitters and sexy mini-dresses, there was no space for the original, beloved Celine woman. It was a return to the young and reckless party it-girl, like an arrogant, spoiled teenage rebellion. So long to the allure of elegant, class yet not classic, modern Celine. With a panoply of diva-like personas, not an ounce of Phoebe Philo’s work was honored. 10 years of hard work to revive the flame in the iconic Celine woman, all gone through the repetition of 96 same old “Slimanesque” designs. Celine was for adults, edgy minimalism for those who believed in fashion for the sake of fashion, not teenagers buying labels. It was the accent that determined a personal style, which, ironically, Slimane ripped away by changing the name ‘Céline’ to ‘Celine’.
Speaking of which, the brand name is certainly not a loser in this situation. When Celine’s parent company LVMH proudly called Slimane to take over, it knew perfectly well the cold-blooded marketing move it would be able to stage. Ruthless in their money chase, LVMH needed a new cash-cow, and Celine was the ideal candidate: gaining in popularity, it was the right moment to sell, sell, and sell. What better than an egocentric designer, too in love with its own designs to bother respecting a brand’s heritage? The SS19 show was not even necessary to start with the money-making. Placing the new “16” bag on Lady Gaga before even presenting it to Celine lovers already started the transition.
What is left to speculate now is the future of Celine. Will buyers reconciliate with their love for fashion and stand for the label’s original spirit? Or will they surrender to the blurring shimmer of sparkly jackets and dresses?
PEAK 